If
you're like most people, purchasing a home is the biggest investment
you'll ever make. If you're considering buying a home, you're
likely aware of the complexity of the endeavor. Because of the
numerous factors to consider when purchasing a home, it's important
to prepare as best you can. Some common home-buying principles
and caveats are presented here for your consideration. By keeping
them in mind, you'll help create a successful and more enjoyable
experience. These Top Ten lists are by no means exhaustive. Since
your home could cost you 25 to 40 percent of your gross income,
it's important to conduct research, ask questions and study the
process carefully.
Buying
a home
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Looking
for a home without being pre-approved. As a potential
buyer competing for a property, you'll have a better chance
of getting your offer accepted by being as prepared as possible.
Consider this hierarchy of preparedness:
Neither pre-qualified nor pre-approved
Pre-qualified
Pre-approved
The
benefits available at each level can be easily understood
when viewed from the seller's perspective. Imagine you're
a seller in receipt of multiple offers to purchase your property.
A complete stranger (buyer) is asking you to take your property
off the market for at least the next two to three weeks while
they apply for a loan. As the seller, lets consider the type
of buyer you'd prefer to deal with.
Neither
pre-qualified nor pre-approved:
This
buyer provides no evidence that they can afford to purchase
your property. You may wonder how serious they are since they're
not at least pre-qualified.
Pre-qualified:
This
buyer has met with a mortgage broker (or lender) and discussed
their situation. The buyer has informed the broker regarding
their income, expenses, assets and liabilities. The broker
may also have seen their credit report. The buyer provided
you with a letter from the broker stating an opinion of what
the buyer can afford.
Pre-approved:
This
buyer has provided a broker written evidence of income, expenses,
assets, liabilities and credit. All information has been verified
by a lender. As a result, much of the paperwork for this buyer's
loan has been completed. This buyer will probably be able
to close quickly. They provide you with a letter (pre-approval
certificate) from the lender. You're as certain as possible
that this buyer can close.
As a potential buyer, you can see that being pre-approved
will give you the best chance of getting your offer accepted.
This is critical in a competitive situation.
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Making
verbal agreements. If you're asked toÊsign a document
containing instructions contrary toÊyour verbal agreementsdon't!
For example, the seller verbally agrees to include the washing
machine in the sale, but the written purchase contract excludes
it. The written contract will override the verbal contract.
More importantly, your state may require that contracts for
the sale of real property be in writing. Do not expect oral
agreements to be enforceable.
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Choosing
a lender just because they have the lowest rate. While
the rate is important, consider the total cost of your loan
including the APR, loan fees, discount
and origination points. When receiving a quote from a lender
or broker, insist that the discount points (charged by the
lender to reduce the interest rate) be distinguished from
origination points (charged for services rendered in originating
the loan).
The cost of the mortgage, however, shouldn't be your only
criterion. Have confidence that the company you select is
reputable and will deliver the loan with the terms and costs
they promised. If in the final hours of the transaction you
determine that the lender has suddenly increased their profit
margin at your expense, you won't have time to start again
with a different lender. Ask family and friends for referrals.
Interview prospective mortgage companies.
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Not
receiving a Good Faith Estimate. Within three business
days after the broker or lender receives your loan application,
you must receive a written statement of fees associated with
the transaction. This is both the law and the best way to
determine what you'll pay for your loan. Bring the Good Faith
Estimate (GFE) with you when you sign loan documents. You
should not be expected to pay fees which are substantially
different from those contained in your GFE.
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Not
getting a rate lock in writing. When a mortgage company
tells you they have locked your rate, get a written statement
detailing the interest rate, the length of the rate lock,
and program details.
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Using
a dual agent i.e., an agent who represents the buyer
and the seller in the same transaction. Buyers and sellers
have opposing interests. Sellers want to receive the highest
price, buyers want to pay the lowest price. In the standard
real estate transaction, the seller pays the real estate commission.
When an agent represents both buyer and seller, the agent
can tend to negotiate more vigorously on behalf of the seller.
As a buyer, you're better off having an agent representing
you exclusively. The only time you should consider a dual
agent is when you get a price break. In that case, proceed
cautiously and do your homework!
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Buying
a home without professional inspections. Unless you're
buying a new home with warranties on most equipment, it's
highly recommended that you get property, roof and termite
inspections. This way you'll know what you are buying. Inspection
reports are great negotiating tools when asking the seller
to make needed repairs. When a professional inspector recommends
that certain repairs be done, the seller is more likely to
agree to do them.
If the seller agrees to make repairs, have your inspector
verify that they are done prior to close of escrow. Do not
assume that everything was done as promised.
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Not
shopping for home insurance until you are ready to close.
Start shopping for insurance as soon as you have an accepted
offer. Many buyers wait until the last minute to get insurance
and do not have time to shop around.
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Signing
documents without reading them. Whenever possible, review
in advance the documents you'll be signing. (Even though some
specifics of your transaction may not be known early in the
transaction, the documents you'll sign are standard forms
and are available for review.) It's unlikely that you'll have
sufficient time to read all the documents during the closing
appointment.
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Not
allowing for delays in the transaction. In a perfect world,
all real estate transactions close on time. In the world we
live in, transactions are often delayed a week or more. Suppose
you asked your landlord to terminate your lease the day your
purchase transaction was scheduled to close. A day or two before
your scheduled closing date, you discover your transaction is
delayed a week. In a perfect world, no one is inconvenienced
and your landlord is willing to work with you. More likely,
however, your landlord is inconvenienced and angry. Will you
be thrown out? Will you have to find interim housing for a week
or more? The eviction process takes a little time, so the Sheriff
won't immediately remove you, but this type of stress-producing
episode can be avoided. How? Terminate your lease one week after
your real estate transaction is scheduled to close. That way,
if there is a delay in closing your transaction, you have some
leeway. This approach might cost a little more, then again,
it might not.
Refinancing
your home
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Refinancing
with your existing lender without shopping around. Your
existing lender may not have the best rates and programs. There
is a general misconception that it is easier to work with your
current lender. In most cases, your current lender will require
the same documentation as other companies. This is because most
loans are sold on the secondary market and have to be approved
independently. Even if you have made all your mortgage payments
on time, your existing lender will still have to verify assets,
liabilities, employment, etc. all over again.
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Not
doing a break-even analysis. Determine the total cost of
the transaction, then calculate how much you will save every
month. Divide the total cost by the monthly savings to find
the number of months you will have to stay in the property to
break even.
Example: if your transaction costs $2000 and you save $50/month,
you break even in 2000/50 = 40 months. In this case you'd refinance
if you planned to stay in your home for at least 40 months.
Note: This is a simplified break-even analysis.
If you are refinancing considering switching from an adjustable
to a fixed loan, or from a 30-year loan to a 15-year loan, the
analysis becomes much more complex.
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Not
getting a written good-faith estimate of closing costs. See
item number four above.
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Paying
for an appraisal when you think your home value may be too
low. Have the appraisal company prepare a desk review
appraisal (typically at no charge) to provide you with a range
of possible values. Your mortgage company's appraiser may
do this for you. Do not waste your money on a full appraisal
if you are doubtful about the value of your home.
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Using
the county tax-assessor's value as the market value of your
home. Mortgage companies do not use the county tax-assessor's
value to determine whether they will make the loan. They use
a market-value appraisal which may be very different from
the assessed value.
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Signing
your loan documents without reviewing them. See item number
nine above.
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Not
providing documents to your mortgage company in a timely manner.
When your mortgage company asks you for additional documents,
provide them immediately. They are doing what's necessary
to get your loan approved and closed. Delays in providing
documents can result in a costly delays.
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Not
getting a rate lock in writing. When a mortgage company
tells you they have locked your rate, get a written statement
which includes the interest rate, the length of the rate
lock and details about the program.
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Pulling
cash out of your credit line before you refinance your first
mortgage. Many lenders have cash-out seasoning requirements.
This means that if you pull cash out of your credit line for
anything other than home improvements, they will consider
the refinance to be a cash-out transaction. This usually results
in stricter requirements and can, in some cases, break the
deal!
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Getting
a second mortgage before you refinance your first mortgage.
Many mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts
(i.e., the first loan plus the second) when refinancing the
first mortgage. If you plan on refinancing your first loan,
check with your mortgage company to find out if getting a
second will cause your refinance transaction to be turned
down.
Getting
a home-equity loan/line
Not
knowing if your loan has a pre-payment penalty clause. If
you are getting a "NO FEE" home-equity loan, chances are there's
a hefty pre-payment penalty included. You'll want to avoid such
a loan if you are planning to sell or refinance in the next three
to five years.
Getting
too large a credit line. When you get too large a credit line,
you can be turned down for other loans because some lenders calculate
your payments based upon the available credit not the used
credit. Even when your equity line has a zero balance, having
a large equity line indicates a large potential payment, which
can make it difficult to qualify for other loans.
Not
understanding the difference between an equity loan and an equity
line. An equity loan is closed i.e., you get
all your money up front and make fixed payments until it is paid
if full. An equity line is open i.e., you can get
numerous advances for various amounts as you desire. Most equity
lines are accessed through a checkbook or a credit card. For both
equity loans and lines, you can only be charged interest on the
outstanding principal balance.
Use an equity loan when you need all the money up front
e.g., for home improvements, debt consolidation, etc.
Use an equity line when you have a periodic need for money, or
need the money for a future event e.g., childrens' college
tuition in the future.
Not
checking the lifecap on your equity line. Many credit lines
have lifecaps of 18 percent. Be prepared to make payments at the
highest potential rate.
Getting
a home-equity loan from your local bank without shopping around.
Many consumers get their equity line from the bank with which
they have their checking account. By all means, consider your
bank, but shop around before making a commitment.
Not
getting a good-faith estimate of closing costs. See item number
four above.
Assuming
that your home-equity loan is fully tax-deductible. In some
instances, your home-equity loan is NOT tax deductible. Do not
depend on your mortgage company for information regarding this
matter check with an accountant or CPA.
Assuming
that a home-equity loan is always cheaper than a car loan or a
credit card. Even after deducting interest for income tax
purposes, a credit card can be cheaper than a credit line. To
find out, compare the effective rate of your home-equity line
with the rate on your credit card or auto loan.
Effective rate = rate * (1 - tax bracket)
Example: The rate of the home-equity line is 12 percent, your
tax bracket is 30 percent, your effective rate is: .12 * (1 -
.3) = .12 * .7 = .084 = 8.4 percent.
If your credit card is higher than 8.4 percent, the equity loan
is cheaper.
Getting
a home-equity line of credit when you plan to refinance your first
mortgage in the near future. Many mortgage companies look
at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the first loan plus the second)
when refinancing the first mortgage. If you plan on refinancing
your first, check with your mortgage company to find out if getting
a second will cause your refinance to be turned down.
Getting
a home-equity line to pay off your credit cardsÊwhen your spending
is out of control! When you pay off your credit cards with
an equity line, don't continue to abuse your credit cards. If
you can't manage the plastic, tear it up!
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